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“The pecan candy man, usually a Mexican, dressed in white duck jacket and trousers, is a familiar sight on the street corners of every Texas city.“—E. G. Littlejohn, “The Pecan: Its Culture and Commercial Value,” The Journal of Geography, Volume 1, March 1902“Candy or sherbet?” Rare is the Mexican restaurant where you’ll hear that anymore. Even harder to find is the candy in question, that is, one that’s made from scratch and hasn’t been left to drift into senectitude in a wicker basket near the cash register. Yet the praline looms large in Texans’ taste memories, that sugary, nutty, creamy-crispy confection (we don’t cotton to the chewy kind) without which no No. 1 dinner is complete.How did the praline come to be the ultimate Tex-Mex…
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